Volcan Pichincha, Quito
For three dollars you can take Quito´s new Teléferico cable car up the side of Volcan Pichincha (inactive volcano about a mile behind my house). The short ride to 4,100 meters is great because of the stunning views of Quito below, but of course the rapid change in altitude produced a pretty serious headache. We didn´t bother with the massive complex at the bottom: amusement park, bumper cars, bars and restaurants, etc.
When Titi and her friend Lio, who is visiting and goes to school with her in Belgium, invited me to come along on a Sunday morning I´m not sure I knew what I was getting into. A cable car sounds great right? and then maybe some hiking around the top with great views?!
Well, the hike to the top (around 4,700 meters) is actually 6-7 hours round trip from the cable car summit, and as you can imagine it is pretty cold and steep. Just to put things in perspective, I´m told that Mt. Everest is around 8,000 meters. It felt like we were hobbits in the Lord of Rings, insignificant specs ascending the green slopes towards the dark black mountain called Mordor.
Of course we started with some Tai Chi breathing and stretching exercises at the warm tourist complex at top of the cable car. Then I bought an overpriced snickers bar to go with the water and sandwiches Titi had packed. I don´t worry about my ankle too much anymore; I just get through the day, only limping near the end, and deal with the pain later.
The three of us were a funny group. Lio and I speak just a little Spanish, Titi and I speak just a little French (she´s much better than me), and both Lio and I know just a few words in Hebrew and Yiddush. We talked throughout the day in Spanish with splatterings of French, and had English as a safety net. Lio is from Marseilles and is studying micro-electronics such as nanotechnology in Belgium. He and Titi are climbers (and vegetarians!) and in much better shape than me. How do you find the energy without eating meat? I trailed them for the last hour or so to the top. The first hour was gentle sloping hills towards the mountain, but the trail disappeared rapidly and it became a steep climb on sliding sand and rock. In some areas it was very difficult to even take a break because of the lack of footholds. At the very top, in fog so thick you lose sight of the person in front of you, the last 150 meters or so was near-vertical climbing up damp and somewhat sharp black rocks. My hands were so cold and my legs so rubbery by that point that I actually started to get scared I might fall down. I didn´t trust my grip nor my Asics running shoes for proper rock climbing traction. It´s not like anyone knows you´re up there either; there is no park service or station where you check in. Just a few other small groups of hikers, coincidentally including my Sasquatchewan Canadian friends from Baños!
I think they have a make-shift medical unit back at the Teléferico. Needless to say I was exhausted, and my second wind didn´t come when I needed it. I seriously contemplated quitting with only 20 minutes or so to go. But of course I´d carry that embarrassment to my grave, so I got it done. 
You have to climb to high altitudes as early as possible in the day around here, because when the mist rolls in it is not just a question of vision at the top but safety too. We had about 10 minutes or so of good views around 1:30pm at the top, and then the fog came in thick. We scarfed down vegetarian sandwiches and energy munchies like nuts, raisons, and banana chips as other hikers disappeared back down the mountain.
In an instant it was fiercely quiet and you couldn´t see more than 20 feet. From a look-out rock across the other side of the peak Lio sat staring into the fog, playing his flute.
The hike back down was much faster, but without a proper trail our route was uncertain. I spent most of the descent leaning back on my heels while sliding down the loose sand and rock, or on my ass. Lio looked like he was walking on the moon, literally running down the mountain, expertly balanced and navigating the tough topography. By the time we got back to the Teléferico I had to apologize for not speaking much. I had to concentrate on moving my legs. At least while we waited in line to return to the city we had hot cups of coca té. It certainly takes the edge off, and then you can nap the rest of the day away... 
For three dollars you can take Quito´s new Teléferico cable car up the side of Volcan Pichincha (inactive volcano about a mile behind my house). The short ride to 4,100 meters is great because of the stunning views of Quito below, but of course the rapid change in altitude produced a pretty serious headache. We didn´t bother with the massive complex at the bottom: amusement park, bumper cars, bars and restaurants, etc.
When Titi and her friend Lio, who is visiting and goes to school with her in Belgium, invited me to come along on a Sunday morning I´m not sure I knew what I was getting into. A cable car sounds great right? and then maybe some hiking around the top with great views?!
Well, the hike to the top (around 4,700 meters) is actually 6-7 hours round trip from the cable car summit, and as you can imagine it is pretty cold and steep. Just to put things in perspective, I´m told that Mt. Everest is around 8,000 meters. It felt like we were hobbits in the Lord of Rings, insignificant specs ascending the green slopes towards the dark black mountain called Mordor.
Of course we started with some Tai Chi breathing and stretching exercises at the warm tourist complex at top of the cable car. Then I bought an overpriced snickers bar to go with the water and sandwiches Titi had packed. I don´t worry about my ankle too much anymore; I just get through the day, only limping near the end, and deal with the pain later.
The three of us were a funny group. Lio and I speak just a little Spanish, Titi and I speak just a little French (she´s much better than me), and both Lio and I know just a few words in Hebrew and Yiddush. We talked throughout the day in Spanish with splatterings of French, and had English as a safety net. Lio is from Marseilles and is studying micro-electronics such as nanotechnology in Belgium. He and Titi are climbers (and vegetarians!) and in much better shape than me. How do you find the energy without eating meat? I trailed them for the last hour or so to the top. The first hour was gentle sloping hills towards the mountain, but the trail disappeared rapidly and it became a steep climb on sliding sand and rock. In some areas it was very difficult to even take a break because of the lack of footholds. At the very top, in fog so thick you lose sight of the person in front of you, the last 150 meters or so was near-vertical climbing up damp and somewhat sharp black rocks. My hands were so cold and my legs so rubbery by that point that I actually started to get scared I might fall down. I didn´t trust my grip nor my Asics running shoes for proper rock climbing traction. It´s not like anyone knows you´re up there either; there is no park service or station where you check in. Just a few other small groups of hikers, coincidentally including my Sasquatchewan Canadian friends from Baños!
I think they have a make-shift medical unit back at the Teléferico. Needless to say I was exhausted, and my second wind didn´t come when I needed it. I seriously contemplated quitting with only 20 minutes or so to go. But of course I´d carry that embarrassment to my grave, so I got it done. 
You have to climb to high altitudes as early as possible in the day around here, because when the mist rolls in it is not just a question of vision at the top but safety too. We had about 10 minutes or so of good views around 1:30pm at the top, and then the fog came in thick. We scarfed down vegetarian sandwiches and energy munchies like nuts, raisons, and banana chips as other hikers disappeared back down the mountain.
In an instant it was fiercely quiet and you couldn´t see more than 20 feet. From a look-out rock across the other side of the peak Lio sat staring into the fog, playing his flute.
The hike back down was much faster, but without a proper trail our route was uncertain. I spent most of the descent leaning back on my heels while sliding down the loose sand and rock, or on my ass. Lio looked like he was walking on the moon, literally running down the mountain, expertly balanced and navigating the tough topography. By the time we got back to the Teléferico I had to apologize for not speaking much. I had to concentrate on moving my legs. At least while we waited in line to return to the city we had hot cups of coca té. It certainly takes the edge off, and then you can nap the rest of the day away... 
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